Wednesday 15 August 2012

Day 5 - Berwick on Tweed to Kelso

37 miles - average 9.7 mph - total mileage so far 174 miles

Not a great nights sleep for me due to the racket being made all night by the seagulls perched on the houses opposite (where's a shotgun when you need one). Thomas of course slept like a log!
 
Had a leisurely breakfast and a look at the historic Barracks in Berwick before we set off. A steep climb out of Berwick, we turned away from the coast and we were soon on quiet country lanes and cycle tracks passing through the rolling corn covered hills of the Scottish Borders. I love this part of the country. Thomas was very impressed and we took a quick photo at the Welcome to Scotland sign (he had asked over breakfast if there was a passport control to enter Scotland - not yet!). About 5 miles further on we crossed the river Tweed again and a Welcome to England sign, which caused Thomas some confusion, until I explained that we would be following the river Tweed, crossing it several times and that the border between England and Scotland ran down he middle of the Tweed for some miles. "If I was fishing the Tweed that means I could cast from England to Scotland Dad?" He catches on quick!
 
The route became a bit hillier now that we were travelling inland and kept crossing the river. The clouds cleared and gave way to clear blue sunny skies. Unfortunately the climbing and hot weather made it harder and we both became more tired as the day went on.

I wanted to make a short detour when we came to Norham to visit the farm where I spent many happy family holidays when I was a kid. I had told Thomas this yesterday and he complained about the extra mileage, so I kept quiet and just took the detour without telling him. Reaching the farm he was okay about it. The place hadn't changed at all and was exactly as I remembered it. Brought back lots of memories of my brother and I running wild on the farm and long days spent fishing the Tweed. The farm hands used to take us with them when they went out netting salmon in the Tweed or shooting rabbits; a school boys dream! In fact the farmer gave us an air rifle and later a shot gun to take shooting rabbits, pigeons and crows. We were probably around 12-13 at the time and I'm sure the health & safety police wouldn't allow it these days. 

Back on the planned route we soon came to Coldstream, a typical Border market town with tractors roaring through the main street and which also seems frozen in time. Everywhere we travelled in this area the farmers are working hard and the combine harvesters working all night to harvest the wheat after a very wet summer and before the next bout of rain. We had lunch in Coldstream in the Tea Rooms, which was filled with elderly ladies taking a long afternoon tea and chatting in the their lovely soft Border accent.

Heading on from Coldstream we were both becoming tired (and in my case redder) in the hot sunshine and the pace slowed to a crawl. We were both very glad when we eventually rolled into the cobbled streets of Kelso where we would spend the night. A warm welcome at the B&B and another large Georgian house which was beautifully decorated.

We had a very enjoyable meal in a new Italian restaurant recommended at the B&B and Thomas consumed a large pizza. The rest of the evening was spent walking round the beautiful market square and gardens in Kelso and then along the river Tweed where we watched a fly fisherman for a while.


Very warm evening and took a while to fall asleep. Thomas of course slept like the dead again and didn't remember falling out of bed in the middle of the night!

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