Wednesday 15 August 2012

Day 4 - Belford via Lindisfarne to Berwick on Tweed

32 miles - average 9.8 mph - total mileage so far 138 miles

Lovely B&B and a great breakfast.

Today we had to cycle 12 miles from Belford to arrive at Lindisfarne (Holy Island) by 10:45, this being the time of the last safe crossing time before the tide comes in and floods the causeway across to the island. We made pretty good time and were on the causeway at just after 10am. Strange feeling cycling along a small road with the sea on either side anxiously watching to see if the water was rising. It's also a long causeway at about 3 miles so we had a good incentive to cycle quickly!

We made it in good time and were now trapped on the island for 4 hours until the next safe crossing at 2pm. We pushed the bikes up the steep slope to the castle and locked the bikes to the fence. The castle was very interesting (can't imagine people living in such small dark rooms on an island cut off from the mainland, especially in winter!). There is also a very impressive lime kiln works that is over 200 years old and was at the time the largest in Northumberland. We had lunch sitting outside in a great little cafe and chatted to a very friendly lady who was really interested in what we were doing. After this a leisurely wander round St Mary's church, followed by some time collecting shells on the beach and Thomas fascinated by the dead jelly fish washed up on the beach.


About 2pm we cycled back along the causeway and turned right to follow the coastal path to Berwick on Tweed, a very rough track in places and at times we were cycling across fields. The views were fantastic and we passed more amazing golden beaches. Stopped at an ice cream at one beach (well would have been rude not too since he made such an effort to reach the beach).


Soon we could see Berwick on the horizon and after a couple of miles we were cycling across the bridge over the Tweed onto Berwick. I remember Berwick well from the many childhood holidays spent on the Scottish borders and it hasn't changed at all!

Finding the B&B was easy and although it didn't look much from the outside, it was very impressive inside and we had a lovely big room. A very warm welcome at the B&B where we had to push the bikes through the house because being a Georgian town house they had no back entrance. I thought it prudent not to mention the cow pat I had cycled through about 5 miles back. He is a cyclist so we had plenty to chat about. Enjoyed the sound of the seagulls at least to start with!


Thomas has chosen a different cuisine each night and tonight he wanted Chinese. We had a great meal in the only Chinese restaurant in town, followed by a walk along the historic town walls, which I have never done before. Berwick really is steeped in history, having changed hands from being English to Scottish several times over the centuries and has numerous old buildings. Must come back one day and spend more time in the town.

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