Day 7 - Innerleithen to Edinburgh

41.3 miles - average 9.4 mph - total mileage so far 248 miles

WE MADE IT!!

Knew today was going to be our hardest day with 38 miles and a climb up to 1,200 ft.

We had a good nights sleep and great breakfast. Set of by 9:30 to give us as much time as possible.

 

Weather was again good with intermittent sunshine and clouds, with a light breeze. Immediately we turned north of Innerleithen high street and we started to climb a slight hill, and it went on....and on.....and on.......We were climbing constantly for 7 miles without any sign of a flat part. As compensation the scenery was spectacular with mountains, open moorland and a running stream. We had maybe 5-6 cars an hour passing us and it reminded very much of my JOGLE trip through the Highlands.
 

Thomas was finding it hard going and becoming increasingly exhausted and fed up with the constant climbing. I got him to take it slowly, get into a comfortable low gear and take plenty of breaks. Eventually we went through a pass between two mountains, it flatten out and then suddenly we were flying down the other side at over 30 mph. This went on for three miles which Thomas enjoyed a lot! We then started climbing again, although fortunately not for long before we were again racing downhill. After that the route was mainly flat or downhill through some great forest cycle tracks an great fun.

 

We had lunch at pub called the Castle and it really did look like a castle. A very friendly welcome, great food and we were really enjoying the day.

 

It wasn't long before we passed through Dalkeith and entered the outskirts of Edinburgh. The route right into the heart of Edinburgh was on great cycle tracks and at one point was through an underground tunnel for about 1/4 mile that was only for cyclists/walkers! Well done Edinburgh.

Once we reached the city centre we did have to use the cycle lane through the busy Edinburgh street. Because the Festival is on in August it really was crowded and I nearly killed several tourists who were walking in the cycle lane on the main road without a care in the world!

 

We ended our long journey in Princes Street Gardens sitting looking up at the magnificent Edinburg Castle, listening to a band playing in the park while eating a celebratory ice cream. These gardens are a special place and my parents used to spend many hours in them when they were first marriage and moved to Edinburgh at the tender ages of 20 and 21: so a fitting place to end our adventure.

 

I'm really proud of Thomas cycling so far and for so many days. Not many adults could do this trip let alone an 11 year old boy - what a star!
 

We checked into the hotel, showered, changed and had a meal.

It was then off to the Edinburgh Tattoo in the grounds of the castle. The weather was perfect, every seat was taken and the show was absolutely amazing! Thomas really enjoyed it.
 

What a perfect day and we have a whole day sightseeing tomorrow - and no cycling!!!!!

Day 6 - Kelso to Innerleithen

33 miles - average 9.2 mph - total mileage so far 206 miles

After an enjoyable evening and good nights sleep in Kelso, we had a hearty breakfast and leisurely start to the day.

Despite the forecast cloud, the early mist cleared and were soon cycling under clear sunny skies, but with a welcome slight breeze.

 

Heading out of Kelso we were again on quiet country lanes passing through rolling beautiful countryside. Unfortunately we were both feeling sluggish after a tiring day yesterday and after about 5 miles and a few hills Thomas decided he had had enough, that he was too tired and decided he didn't want to cycle anymore. Took quite a bit of gentle persuasion to get him going again and we set of at a slow pace. If social services knew what I was putting him through I'm sure they would take him away from  his cruel father! 

 

We made slow but steady progress and soon Thomas was feeling better and moving a bit quicker. Unfortunately, my legs remained like lead. I am sure someone is adding stuff to the panniers each night because they are becoming heavier every day.

 

We crossed the Tweed several times across some great bridges, some of which swayed as we crossed them. At one spot we watched the salmon anglers out in boats with their gillie holding the boat in the current as the angler cast. There were 4 boats at regular intervals and I am sure they were paying a lot of money for their weeks fishing on the Tweed. On one bridge were we rested Thomas spotted a barbel holding in the current under the bridge. Never seen or heard of barbel in the Tweed before.

 

Now we were running along the beautiful Tweedale valley. Cycling along forest tracks ( sometimes so rough we had to push the bikes to avoid punctures) and at other times high up looking across the valley with amazing views.

We missed stopping for lunch because there were no villages along the remote route so had to be content with consuming the snacks we had left in the rucksack.

 

Getting tired we were glad when Innerleithen came into view further down the valley and soon found the small hotel. About an hour after we arrived the heavens opened and it poured for about 2 hours, the first rain we have seen all trip.  How lucky was that!

 

Tougher day tomorrow: 38 miles and a 1200 ft climb up to Edinburgh, so early to bed.

Day 5 - Berwick on Tweed to Kelso

37 miles - average 9.7 mph - total mileage so far 174 miles

Not a great nights sleep for me due to the racket being made all night by the seagulls perched on the houses opposite (where's a shotgun when you need one). Thomas of course slept like a log!

 

Had a leisurely breakfast and a look at the historic Barracks in Berwick before we set off. A steep climb out of Berwick, we turned away from the coast and we were soon on quiet country lanes and cycle tracks passing through the rolling corn covered hills of the Scottish Borders. I love this part of the country. Thomas was very impressed and we took a quick photo at the Welcome to Scotland sign (he had asked over breakfast if there was a passport control to enter Scotland - not yet!). About 5 miles further on we crossed the river Tweed again and a Welcome to England sign, which caused Thomas some confusion, until I explained that we would be following the river Tweed, crossing it several times and that the border between England and Scotland ran down he middle of the Tweed for some miles. "If I was fishing the Tweed that means I could cast from England to Scotland Dad?" He catches on quick!

 

The route became a bit hillier now that we were travelling inland and kept crossing the river. The clouds cleared and gave way to clear blue sunny skies. Unfortunately the climbing and hot weather made it harder and we both became more tired as the day went on.

I wanted to make a short detour when we came to Norham to visit the farm where I spent many happy family holidays when I was a kid. I had told Thomas this yesterday and he complained about the extra mileage, so I kept quiet and just took the detour without telling him. Reaching the farm he was okay about it. The place hadn't changed at all and was exactly as I remembered it. Brought back lots of memories of my brother and I running wild on the farm and long days spent fishing the Tweed. The farm hands used to take us with them when they went out netting salmon in the Tweed or shooting rabbits; a school boys dream! In fact the farmer gave us an air rifle and later a shot gun to take shooting rabbits, pigeons and crows. We were probably around 12-13 at the time and I'm sure the health & safety police wouldn't allow it these days. 

Back on the planned route we soon came to Coldstream, a typical Border market town with tractors roaring through the main street and which also seems frozen in time. Everywhere we travelled in this area the farmers are working hard and the combine harvesters working all night to harvest the wheat after a very wet summer and before the next bout of rain. We had lunch in Coldstream in the Tea Rooms, which was filled with elderly ladies taking a long afternoon tea and chatting in the their lovely soft Border accent.

Heading on from Coldstream we were both becoming tired (and in my case redder) in the hot sunshine and the pace slowed to a crawl. We were both very glad when we eventually rolled into the cobbled streets of Kelso where we would spend the night. A warm welcome at the B&B and another large Georgian house which was beautifully decorated.

We had a very enjoyable meal in a new Italian restaurant recommended at the B&B and Thomas consumed a large pizza. The rest of the evening was spent walking round the beautiful market square and gardens in Kelso and then along the river Tweed where we watched a fly fisherman for a while.

Very warm evening and took a while to fall asleep. Thomas of course slept like the dead again and didn't remember falling out of bed in the middle of the night!

Day 4 - Belford via Lindisfarne to Berwick on Tweed

32 miles - average 9.8 mph - total mileage so far 138 miles

Lovely B&B and a great breakfast.

Today we had to cycle 12 miles from Belford to arrive at Lindisfarne (Holy Island) by 10:45, this being the time of the last safe crossing time before the tide comes in and floods the causeway across to the island. We made pretty good time and were on the causeway at just after 10am. Strange feeling cycling along a small road with the sea on either side anxiously watching to see if the water was rising. It's also a long causeway at about 3 miles so we had a good incentive to cycle quickly!

We made it in good time and were now trapped on the island for 4 hours until the next safe crossing at 2pm. We pushed the bikes up the steep slope to the castle and locked the bikes to the fence. The castle was very interesting (can't imagine people living in such small dark rooms on an island cut off from the mainland, especially in winter!). There is also a very impressive lime kiln works that is over 200 years old and was at the time the largest in Northumberland. We had lunch sitting outside in a great little cafe and chatted to a very friendly lady who was really interested in what we were doing. After this a leisurely wander round St Mary's church, followed by some time collecting shells on the beach and Thomas fascinated by the dead jelly fish washed up on the beach.

About 2pm we cycled back along the causeway and turned right to follow the coastal path to Berwick on Tweed, a very rough track in places and at times we were cycling across fields. The views were fantastic and we passed more amazing golden beaches. Stopped at an ice cream at one beach (well would have been rude not too since he made such an effort to reach the beach).

Soon we could see Berwick on the horizon and after a couple of miles we were cycling across the bridge over the Tweed onto Berwick. I remember Berwick well from the many childhood holidays spent on the Scottish borders and it hasn't changed at all!

Finding the B&B was easy and although it didn't look much from the outside, it was very impressive inside and we had a lovely big room. A very warm welcome at the B&B where we had to push the bikes through the house because being a Georgian town house they had no back entrance. I thought it prudent not to mention the cow pat I had cycled through about 5 miles back. He is a cyclist so we had plenty to chat about. Enjoyed the sound of the seagulls at least to start with!

Thomas has chosen a different cuisine each night and tonight he wanted Chinese. We had a great meal in the only Chinese restaurant in town, followed by a walk along the historic town walls, which I have never done before. Berwick really is steeped in history, having changed hands from being English to Scottish several times over the centuries and has numerous old buildings. Must come back one day and spend more time in the town.

Day 3 - Amble to Belford

43 miles - average 9.7mph - total mileage so far 104 miles
After a full English breakfast we take the bikes out of the stable where they had spent the night and are ready for the run along the beautiful coastline up to Bamburgh.....only to immediately discover my back tyre was completely flat. :-(

30 minutes later I had fitted a new inner tube and away we went. 2 miles on decided the back tyre needed a bit more air. Pumped it up a bit, unscrewed the tube on the pump, the valve on the tyre unscrews with it and the whole tyre instantly deflates.....along with my optimism! Refit the valve, pump up the tyre again and set off again (having now lost about an hour).

Few miles along, after a quick look round Warkworth Castle (5th castle so far) Thomas starts to lag behind and eventually tells me he has a sore stomach (most likely a result of the amount of breakfast consumed). Starting to have a bad feeling about today!

So I reduce the pace and gently encourage Thomas to keep going. Again we are running along a beautiful cycle track parallel to sea, with frequent glimpses of deserted golden beaches. By the time we reach Longhoughton the bacon and sausage has reduced below danger levels and Thomas is starting to feel better. After this we are cycling more in land through quiet scenic villages and along almost deserted country lanes. On the way we pass an RAF base with a phantom jet displayed outside the main gate. Well that got Thomas' attention and several photos of him posing in front of it were taken.

By lunchtime we had reached Seahouses and made one of our now frequent visits to a Co-operative supermarket (they do seem to have a strong foothold in Northumbria) to buy some lunch. This was consumed sitting on the beach at Seahouses in glorious sunshine. The weather has been great so far with dry, cloudy mornings followed by clear blue skies in the afternoon. Bit too hot for cycling really and by now I'm starting to look like a lightly boiled lobster, but we're not going to tempt fate and complain.

Pretty soon we spot a magnificent castle on the horizon which turns out to Bamburgh castle (our 7th castle so far on the route). We have an ice cream in Bamburgh and spend a little time in the beautiful gardens below the castle. Didn't remember that the Bamburgh castle was so big which is nearly as
large as Windsor castle (shame we don't have time to visit).

A few more miles and we arrive in Belford and find our B&B for the night. Belford is a very small market town with only a couple of pubs. The B&B is very good ("Best so far" according to Thomas).
Go through the daily routine of washing the cycling gear, followed by an enjoyable pub meal and watching the Olympic closing ceremony before going to bed later than planned.

Day 2 - Whitley Bay to Amble

39 miles - average 9.9 mph - total mileage so far 61 miles

Woke up at 7am after a good nights sleep to clear blue skies. After a full English breakfast, which Thomas really enjoyed, we headed north and immediately picked up the cycle track along the coast. How great it is to be cycling where there are no cars and only the odd jogger to worry about. (Mind you it's quite amusing to come up behind a jogger wearing an iPod who is totally oblivious to your friendly warning tings on the bell and see them jump 3 feet in the air when you ease past them.)

After a quick trip across the small causeway to look at St Mary's lighthouse we headed for miles along a fantastic cycle track that ran between sand dunes overlooking a blue sea. Northumbria, and the C&C route in particular, is very cyclist friendly with dedicated car free cycle lanes running along the pavements or car free cycle tracks.

After a little confusion finding the right cycle route and having to double back ("Oh Daddy!) we arrive at Newbiggin and have lunch overlooking the beach. After lunch the route runs either along the most amazing golden beaches (which are very sparsely populated given it is peak holiday season) or scenic countryside where there seem to be no people at all except the very occasional cyclist. What an amazing route!

Soon we arrive in Amble a small busy seaside town and stopped for the mandatory ice cream. Only another 2 miles on and we arrive at the B&B which is on a farm. A very warm welcome from the owner, a comfortable room with stables outside the bedroom window and a view over fields full of sheep. I spent many family holidays on a farm in the Northumberland/Scottish borders and the views bring back happy childhood memories. 
 

A hearty meal in a local pub and early to bed.

Day 1 - Home to Whitley Bay

22 miles cycling and 7 hours of train journey.

Up at 5am, hearty breakfast and then a 5 mile cycle to Slough station to catch an early train to Reading. Chased by an alsatian on the way to the station (didn't know that Thomas could cycle so fast!) and then someone tried to kill me by not looking and opening a car door as I was approaching. If this is how the trip is going to go perhaps we better head home now!

Checked with the ticket inspector where we need to put the bikes on the train. "No problem go anywhere and put them in the corridor between the carriages". Train duly arrives and the guard informs us they have to go in the cycle carriage at the front of the train. Great! So we're now trying to rush to the other end of the train pushing the bikes through a mass of Olympic fans who just alighted. Finally made it after a stressful few minutes and us delaying the train.

Arrived at Reading in plenty of time for the train to Newcastle. Boarding the train and loading the bikes was a much more leisurely affair and we settled into our seats for the 5 hour journey. Thomas was very good during a pretty boring ride and we arrived in Newcastle on time.

After some initial confusion I eventually found the right road down to the cycle route along the Tyne.
A great relief and sense of adventure to finally be starting the trip.

Never been to Newcastle before and I was very impressed with the scenic route along the river past lots of beautiful bridges and buildings, both modern and historic. Great to see a massive Olympic symbol hanging from one bridge.

17 miles along the Tyne to Tynemouth and onto Whitley Bay was a great start to the trip mainly on quiet, scenic cycle paths. Well done Sustran.

The hotel was great and we had a spacious room and secure storage for the bikes.
A fish and chip supper (well you have to when your at the seaside?) and an early night.

Introduction

My son Thomas and I plan to do the Coast & Castle cycle route over 8 days in August. The trip is about 220 miles, starts in Newcastle and finishes in Edinburgh. Thomas is 11 years old and although he is a very good cyclist, this will be by far his longest trip to date. Some of my best childhood memories are of the cycling holidays I spent with my father, so I really hope Thomas will enjoy our trip together.

I only really started the preparations about 3 weeks before hand, so the route was planned, the B&Bs booked, bikes serviced and all the gear organised very quickly. Let's hope I haven't forgotten anything!

We will average 30-35 miles a day and plan to visit lots of places along the way, including Lindisfarne (Holy Island). We have tickets for the Edinburgh Tattoo and will spend an extra day in Edinburgh (one of my favourite cities) at the end of the trip to do some sight seeing.

So this is the story of our trip.....

Gavin & Thomas